Having first appeared on the Tour de France route in 1952 for a stage dominated by Fausto Coppi, the ascent of the puy de Dôme quickly became one of the race’s emblematic challenges. The 1964 duel fought on its slopes between Anquetil and Poulidor remains its most famous episode. After a long hiatus, the Tour returned to its spiralling ascent in 2023, when Michael Woods was the victor. The women’s Tour de France also featured the climb in 1986 and 1987, Maria Canins the winner on both occasions.
- Summit (1,465m) of the Chaîne des Puys volcanic chain in the Massif Central
- Located within the communes of Ceyssat and Orcines in Puy-de-Dôme (63)
- Population: 664,500 within Puy-de-Dôme
- puy-de-dome.fr
Puy de Dôme and cycling
Whilst cycling legends such as Eddy Merckx, Fausto Coppi, Federico Bahamontes, Felice Gimondi, Bernard Thévenet and Lucien Van Impe have all made their mark on the Puy de Dôme, only three have triumphed at the summit on two occasions: Luis Ocana, Joop Zoetemelk and… Maria Canins! The ‘Flying Mum’, aged 37 and then 39 at the time, raised her arms in victory at the Women’s Tour de France in 1986 and 1988, beating her great rival Jeannie Longo on both occasions. In 1986, she won the Tour with a lead of over 15 minutes over the Frenchwoman, who went on to beat her two years later.
This legendary summit, closed to cyclists since 2012 and which the race had not visited since 1988 precisely because of new developments that made organising a finish there almost impossible, made its return to the men’s Tour de France in 2023, when Canadian Michael Woods claimed victory.
Riders have been tackling it for over 70 years, ever since the 1952 Tour, when Fausto Coppi triumphed there, just as he had done at the summit of another climb destined for immense popularity: the Alpe d’Huez. In 1959, Federico Bahamontes’ time trial victory over Charly Gaul heralded an even more memorable duel five years later. On that day, although the stage winner, Julio Jiménez, is often forgotten, it was the gripping head-to-head battle between Raymond Poulidor and Jacques Anquetil that left a lasting impression. ‘Poupou’ dropped the great Jacques in the final stretch, closing the gap to just 14 seconds behind his great rival in the general classification. The images of this duel at the summit are among the most iconic moments in the history of cycling.
The Puy de Dôme, often the scene of decisive time trials, has crowned other great Tour champions such as Luis Ocana, a two-time winner in 1971 and 1973, and Joop Zoetemelk, who also won twice on these slopes in 1976 and 1978. Pierre Matignon, Angel Arroyo and Erich Maechler are the other riders to have conquered it, along with Johnny Weltz, its last conqueror in 1988.
The very first ascent of the Puy de Dôme by bicycle was achieved in 1892 by local cyclist Fernand Ladoux. This pioneer, a mechanic by trade, was passionate about new modes of transport – bicycle and automobile – as well as photography. An early cycling enthusiast, he was a founding member in 1892 and route leader of the Véloce-Club Auvergnat, whose honorary president was none other than Marcel Michelin. He left behind numerous photographs of the extinct volcano.
But we must also, and above all, mention Lily Herse, the first woman to win the Grimpée du Puy de Dôme race in 1949. Two years later, she repeated the feat in 57 minutes, a record time. A nine-time French road champion between 1956 and 1967, she took part in the first women’s Tour de France organised by Jean Leulliot in 1955 and finished fourth.
Sights
Mule Track
Starting at the Col de Ceyssat: the climb takes between 45 minutes and an hour. Winding its way up the 350-metre ascent to the summit of the Puy de Dôme, the Muletiers’ Trail is the ancient path which, it is said, led pilgrims to the Temple of Mercury. This trail is marked in yellow and features several information boards. Starting from the Visitor Centre (via the Col de Ceyssat): allow between 1½ and 2 hours to cover the 6 km ascent.
Espace Grand Site de France
Located at the summit of the Puy de Dôme, it is open from 10.00 to 17.30 without a break. Its engaging and interactive exhibition design (educational display panels, interactive terminals, films, lenticular images, etc.) allows visitors to immerse themselves in the spirit of the place through three themes: spirituality, beliefs and legends at the summit; the challenge of sustainable management; and human achievements (scientific and sporting). Temporary exhibitions also provide an opportunity to keep up to date with the site’s latest news and to learn more about the department. In the screening room, two short films are shown, relating to the Puy de Dôme site, its history and its iconic status.
Mercury Temple Area
Located at the summit, it is open to the public from 10.50 am to 4.40 pm without interruption. The Temple Observatory offers an interactive tour to explore the Sanctuary of Mercury. This journey back to the 2nd century AD is brought to life through films, models, artefacts and a range of interactive activities. After following the Via Agrippa, visitors follow the pilgrims’ path into the sanctuary, discovering the main artefacts unearthed during the excavations, as well as the materials and construction techniques used in the temple.
Temple of Mercury
Built: c. 140.
Style: Gallo-Roman.
History: in the 2nd century, the largest mountain temple in Roman Gaul stood atop the Puy de Dôme. Primarily dedicated to Mercury, this grand terraced sanctuary was a major pilgrimage site. The temple was chiefly dedicated to Mercury Dumias (of the Dôme), the protector of travellers and merchants, who had already been worshipped previously under other names. Boasting an ideal vantage point overlooking the capital of the city of Augustonemetum (Clermont-Ferrand), the sanctuary is visible to all. The remains of the temple were discovered in the late 19th century, but it is the excavations carried out over the past twenty years or so that have revealed its significance.
Characteristics: the architecture of the Temple of Mercury combines classical features (a vast pronaos) with Gallo-Roman elements (a square cella flanked by a gallery on three sides). Owing to its architectural composition, its size (3,600 m²) and the way access is organised via terraced levels that adapt remarkably well to the topography of the Puy de Dôme, this monumental complex can be ranked amongst the most important pilgrimage sanctuaries of the Western Roman Empire.
Listing: listed as a Historic Monument in 1889.